Jwala mata - A tranquil abode

Last sunday, I left for Sadhupul along with Rashmi on my bike. We headed out from Chandigarh at around 7 AM and after a quick praanthe/wraanthe, we reached Kandaghat at about 9:30 in the AM. Kandaghat lies approximately 90 kms from Chandigarh. The road forks from here with one taking you to Shimla about 40 kms away and the other one taking you a Chail.

Get on the road that takes you to Chail. Make sure that you are not in a hurry. Neither the road nor the scenery will let you speed up your journey.  You are first headed down to the valley where you cross Sadhu Pul and then start snaking your way up to Chail.A Kilometer before Sadhupul,  you will see a small muddy road heading up into the mountains. Take that road. About a km into the road, you will reach Auri. A small village nestled into the lower shivaliks.

We were accosted by Pratap, a local lad and quicky build a camraderie. He showed us around and then were invited for some pahadi chai. We were offered roti and subji made of wild mushrooms. We declined in hopes of a sumptuous meal at Jwala mata. Today was the mahayagna and there was bound to be some bhandara awaiting us.

The road up to jwala mata from Auri is a little more rugged and steep, so be careful with your non 4 wheel drives. We got lost but I took up that opportunity to answer natures call right in the midst of nature.

Another 2 kms up the rugged road and we were at the parking lot. This does not in anyway look like a parking lot but more like a beautiful campground. And Of course it is. On almost any other day, this is a desolate place with only the local baba calling it home. Anyways, a small hike up, maybe 500 mts and you are at Jwala Mata. If you had built up expectations of a grand temple with lots of amenities, then you will be sorely disappointed. Neither is it a large temple complex and neither is there a commercial establishment, a sorry sight at most other pilgrim places in India. Jwala mata is a small little temple at the peak of a small hill. A very tranquil place with only the sounds of nature to accompany you. This is perfect camping spot with water supply and a makeshift toilet. A perfect weekend getaway for soul searchers.

Today was the mahayagna, so there were pilgrims coming over from the surrounding villages. We got to learn a thing or 2 from these pahadi people. The place was absolutely clean and everybody including kids threw the trash in the bins. A group of people were getting ready to welcome their local raja, Raja Kaul Singh. The welcome party consisted of drums and a bag piper. We were astonished to see a bag piper being a common sight in himachali band baaja. After asking around, the locals told Rashmi that they get the bag pipes from the Army at a discounted price and everybody in the mountains learn to play them.

We met some interesting people, let alone a minister who thought we were journalists and gave us an half hour interview. We were enquired about having langar, and the head priest made sure we were fed adequately.

Another must stop was the baba's kutir. He had just lit up the chillum and was passing on the prasad to his chelas. After some smoky drags, the baba settlled down to give a sermon.

A quick dialogue with the local baba in his Kutir and it was time to head down to the chaos of Chandigarh. And chaos it was.

We are heading back to Jwala mata this weekend, carrying our tents of course and planning to spend the weekend doing some soul searching.